APPG Textiles & Fashion And Sustainability, Portcullis House Room S Wednesday 5th December
Updated: Mar 12, 2020
Please click on link below for the full agenda.
agenda for APPG for Textiles and Fashion on sustainable fashion 17:00 Meeting starts Dr. Lisa Cameron MP – Welcomes everyone for coming especially within the chaos of Brexit sustainability is so important and topical particularly coming up to Christmas where the average woman in UK will have 3 pairs of shoes that will not be worn and will end up in landfill. Delighted everyone is here • Lisa invites John McNally MP who sits on Environmental Audit Committee to speak • John – We have been looking at waste which has been a real eye opener. I am a hairdresser looking at modern slavery in the high street, the environment recycling and sustainability. Sitting on the EAC we have exposed problem of microbeads and microfibres. There is nothing to catch them, they are toxic to animals and us. Birds are picking up plastic and feeding them to their young. David Attenborough programs have helped awareness of all these problems. L’oreal, Unilever etc are all looking to small businesses to start change but “a wee bit of shaming of these big companies soon gets them to respond”. • Lisa invites Baroness Young to speak. • Baroness Young – we have been working with ASOS and others, Section 54 of the Modern Slavery Act which focuses on the slave trade within industry. • Lisa – Happy that you are working on Section 54 slave trade. We can feed this into sustainability issue to inform parliament for question and debate • Baroness Young – we don’t need 2 groups but it is important to keep up pressure and work together. • Lisa – Agreed. We look across the board spectrum of the fashion industry, so far with events covering IP, Commonwealth, China etc. to give these the necessary profile • TC reads agenda Our role to facilitate between consumer and government – We have no speaker list but introduces Orsola de Castro of Fashion Revolution • Orsola – Explains the origin of Fashion Revolution beginning as a result of Rana Plaza disaster in April 2013. We are looking at Fashion Transparency in the supply chain for us the manufacturer and citizens. The current supply chain culture is elite and opaque where environmental and human abuse thrives. • Orsola introduces Olivia from “Impact” at C&A Foundation. • Olivia – We are working with C&A Foundation to force a circular economy with transparency and best practices that are implemented globally Lisa – Is it true that in Turkey refugees from Syria are making clothing? • Olivia – Yes they are integrated in Turkey and hiding in plain sight to keep ‘business as usual’. Children are at the bottom of the supply chain and working in clothing factories. Lisa – As we give aid for refugees we need to talk to Business for International Trade and ask what are they doing • Baroness Young – This is a problem that leads to tensions between Departments. What role does the government have so that we move together? Section 54 review report looking at what is to be done to eliminate forced labour. • Olivia – Refugee integration is rife with issues • Nick Davies – Adviser to the EAC – A lot of cotton goes through Turkey – Panorama talking to us about program on anti-slavery Orsola – Why with 400% increase in veganism we are not asking for sustainable cotton in M&S? • Baroness Young – Uzbekistan had some impact but it is hard to persuade the government to sign up through lack of will • Nina Marenzi of “The Sustainable Angle” – We need to look at all fibres through Environmental Justice Foundation. You can trace fibre – we can trace tencel easily. Consumer information on cotton is poor. Sustainable cotton is not organic cotton. Sustainable cotton needs to be validated. • Katherine Hamnett CBE- Organic cotton is rain fed provides livelihood for farmers stopping them leaving their farms and going to cities. Pesticides are expensive and toxic. A sugar sachet size of pesticide kills 35million bees! We should demand that brands only use organic. • Olivia – What is the price of Organic compared with other cotton? • Simon Platts from ASOS – VIC base point is neutral but spinner and others need to be paid. Pesticides are expensive and get mangle with other things so it could be 60pence for cost of T-shirt let’s say. We have seen that there is massive inefficiencies that are not engaged with cost. We need better money education and management. • Orsola – It is our perception it costs more but not really if we make some changes
• Katherine – it is when the cotton leaves the farmer that the price suddenly jumps • Lisa – Cotton doesn’t have a trade mark like Fair Trade on food • Orsola – Many brands will switch to organic if consumer demand • Simon – The industry needs to collaborate with farmers manufacturers designers etc • John – We could have a colour coded system • Simon – It needs to be easy with guidance from government – the power is here we need to tie it together • Anna Murray from Paternity – VCI is simple to brand and we tried with John Lewis but they were reluctant to make it work • Orsola – we need a campaign for organic cotton like veganism • Barlas Bingul Oya from Lenzing – The problem is we do not have enough organic cotton for supply. At Lenzing we are happy to work with ASOS and look at other options • TC – Defra is here but aware of time people can connect after the meeting ends • Lisa – Want to talk about Fashion Tech – Write to MPs on modern Slavery • Baroness Young – Problem with letters is that they have very little effect. It is better to get brands in for discussion • Floor – We need to tax brands for not using sustainable/organic cotton • Baroness Young – Like we have with food but at the moment its a voluntary basis as with ASOS • Floor – BFC don’t have any clout – “I sit on the committee but nothing happens” • Katherine Hamnett – Hence why we have and need Fashion Roundtable • Nick – “The time is up for fashion marking its own homework and getting proper standards in place” • Baroness Young – We need to put pressure on government as they are reluctant to introduce this • Nick – Our next hearing with the HMRC and DEFRA to introduce a Tax cut if recycled fibres areused • Floor – We can tax bad cotton out of the market like cigarettes • Nick – we need a level playing field • Baroness Young – If we have muscle and money without penalty the will then government implement it to happen otherwise it is empty words • Anna – Fear is preventing a lot of action from industry and brands. Fear that it will cost too much and profits fall • Lisa – we need to agree with all areas • Baroness Young – Let’s meet on strategy • Lisa – Let’s look at Fashion Tech • Jodi Muter-Hamilton Been looking at supply chain colour code with 23 organisations creating elements for fashion with their barriers and systems. We need to be careful branding and marketing as this is huge area. Issues like supply chain management, compliance which is difficult with pesticides. Tech processes and innovation are producing fibres with DNA – Block chain and not just sticking a label on it. Great future in mapping cotton from Thailand to ASOS for instance. • Lisa – At the Design Awards I attended they were growing fabric out of mushrooms • Bethany Williams Designer – I’m not growing fabric but breaking fabric down and deconstructing pre-production waste • Nina – Invites all to Victoria House 24/25th February 2019 for The Sustainable Angle event Future Fabrics Expo INVITE-OPENING-RECEPTION-06.1 • Simon – We all know about Copenhagen summit 14th-16th May 2019 – UK needs to be there with logos tabled and pushed out agreeing international standard to shout about. • Clare Press Vogue Australia Sustainabilty Editor – Labelling would be great – this has been really interesting • Nina – We need to create a Conscious Consumer Guide • Sara Ali – Invited to Conde Nast Summit in South Africa but uninvited because wanted to talkcotton from Sudan being shipped to Eygpt and all the issues connected with that • Abbie from Compare Ethics – We must solidify better terms and tech for better use of tech to work in fashion 18:03 LIsa closes meeting
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